This is about the third time I've taken apart a duck and this time it was three ducks. I have to say that any time I'm do something like this I have my copy of the New Professional Chef out (fifth edition) on the counter as I work.
Frozen ducks are real goldmines. The gold being the rendered fat. Considering I'm preparing for Passover this weekend it will go to good use. I'm using the fat primarily to confit the legs and wings. The breasts are to be part of a small course about 1/3rd of breast served on top of a date and cashew pate with a candied fruit and nut topping... haven't figured it out yet.
Continue reading "Dismembering Duck" »
This was an interesting recipe to follow, from Kitchen Sessions by Charlie Trotter. I don't think it was too obscure and not very hard either. At least not like Keller's short ribs from the French Laundry cookbook which is next on the list, as soon as I get a line on some good marrow bones (I have a good line but it sounds like a good excuse, no?).
The browning of leek, garlic, jalapeño, granny smith, and yellow onion created a wonderful aroma. Dumping in a bottle of Zin, thyme, sage and coriander seeds certainly added something. Plunking the ribs into the marinade, I did a very hard thing, I tossed it into the fridge for the night.
Continue reading "Kitchen Sessions: Trotter's Braised Short Ribs pt.1" »
You go to certain restaurants and you start to notice patterns... Gunthorp Duck, blood orange reduction, etc. Everything needs a fancy variation, right? Justifies the price and your finickiness... dates are just dates, right?
Well, I have always secretly thought, "Yeah, they do look like little roaches." They have that crispy sort of papery husk of a skin and a mushy center. And they're a bitch to pit. Medjool is on the right and common date is on the left.
Medjool dates are hard not to buy at a glance. They're bigger and
plumper. They don't look like dead insects and have a lovely purple hue
to them, instead of the date-brown. They are a bit more expensive but
honestly dates aren't cheap to begin with and you're usually using them
for something fairly elaborate so the extra buck should be worth it for
the visual benefits.
Continue reading "Medjool Dates" »
Over the holidays, a friend of mine who loves to cook turned me on to a very affordable tagine from Sur La Table. As a fan of cooking and experimenting with new foods, I thought a tagine would be a perfect addition to my kitchen-arsenal and I figured for the price (~$20), it would be a great idea for my Christmas list. Sure enough my husband bought one for me but unwrapping the gift was just the start of my adventures in tagine cooking.
Continue reading "Tagine Home Cooking" »
I've actually had several conversations about rice cookers these past couple of weeks. The topic spanned bread makers and vacuum sealers. I've been using a dehydrator very frequently. Dried banana chips are terrific. So maybe this heightened appreciation for kitchen electrics has got me going but I have to say my leftovers have never been so good.
My toaster broke months ago and short of using my oven's broiler to
toast a few slices (which I've actually done – sorry Mr. Gore) I've
been going without. So when I got a gift of that Hamilton Beach
toaster/toaster oven, with the ridiculous name – Toastation, not only have I been able to enjoy toast (seen
Nacho Libre?) but I rediscovered the benefits of the toaster oven.
Continue reading "The Indispensible Toaster Oven" »
I've been scoping rice cookers, already owning a kick-ass Sanyo, and know that Zojirushi makes some killer cookers. But I found something really cool that tests my new year's "spending freeze" resolve.
It's a crazy super insulated thermos. But it has multiple containers and apparantly holds things at temperature for a seriously long time. You can stack foods to keep colder items cold, etc. Unlike a rice cooker, its not a real necessity and granted you still need to do the cooking but it stays with you all day. If you are microwave-less here's a great option for what seems to be a copious amount of luncheon.
I'm still trying to make heads and tails out of fuzzy rice cookers. I've had great luck hitting "cancel" and "cook" and everything comes out perfect. Considering all the buttons are in Japanese that's no mean feat.
Buy it on amazon after the jump...
Continue reading "New-Fangled Hot Lunch: The Zojirushi "Thermos"" »
So I got on a kick with the shortribs. Oxtail is another one of those $7-8 purchases that when mixed with proper braising liquid, a cab I had handy, and seasoning... and a liberal dose of time, turns simply into flavor.
I mixed up a quick rub with coriander, cumin, pepper, salt, nutmeg, cinnamon and a bit of garlic powder and applied it liberally to the tail. A browning in a pan and placed into a preheated cast iron covered pot with the cup and a half of cabernet and into the oven coasting in at 250 degrees.
Continue reading "Braised Oxtail Dumplings in a Garlic Broth" »
When you get fondue pots for gifts, it's a waste to watch them sit on the shelves. And, of course, you can get fondue at a restaurant. Geja's is quirky and interesting, but their decor and menu are stuck in 1975, and while I like the decor in a time warp, it's a challenge getting excited over tartar sauce and shrimp cocktail. Melting Pot looks like it has an interesting menu, but it has too much of a shopping-mall chain feel to it.
So why not have a fondue party? So for starters I went over to my favorite shop, Pastoral. And no, they're not paying me to say this. Seriously.
Continue reading "Fondue: Home Cookin'" »
When I decided to make dinner for my father-in-law's birthday I started making a list of things I wanted to make and somehow never crossed anything off of the final list. Hence a dinner with 8 tasting courses, + 3 alternates, so that really means 11 courses, no?
I didn't really think that I would begin preparing this in my kitchen and then do most of the work in their kitchen in Milwaukee. It wasn't until that day two that I decided I would never do this again. And of course that is what I always say.
The best news was that my mother-in-law had a new set of cool square plates in all sorts of sizes so all the courses looked great. I should have snapped a pic of at least something.
Continue reading "The Craziest Dinner I Ever Made... 8 Courses" »
Fish has been working for me lately. I did a seared mahi-mahi a few weeks ago and while I loved it my wife wanted fish that was cooked more... she also isn't too crazy about wilted spinach. Her loss. This time she was much happier and honestly it took me half an hour after a long day at the office. Sandra Lee, eat your heart out.
The first thing to do is peel your $0.99 cent parsnip and peel a yellow onion. With a bit of salt and a touch of butter/olive oil, saute them both. As they wilt touch it with a decent splash of some cheapo Chuck's Chardonnay. Crack some pepper and let it cook. When it's a bit brown and the onion is thoroghly cooked turn the fire off and dump the pan into your food processor. Before you continue chop the bottoms off your asparagus and throw away. Chop the bottom 1/4 off of what's left and chop up drop into recently vacated pan. Cook the chopped ends in the saute pan and pop the remaining tall asparagus tops into a tall pan and blanch.
Continue reading "Marlin Steak with Parsnip Puree..." »
It's not anything super fancy but a forged 21-piece set (Includes knife block and a cutting board) for $99 and free shipping? I'm not sure I would ever use the steak knives but
who knows. Having an 8" chefs and a 7" santuko and a 6" chef's is pretty nice, and it's cheaper than some of the used prices I've seen.
Mae West says "Anything worth doing is worth doing slowly."
I'm trying to think of other instances where you trade hours of toil and effort for moments of enjoyment. We wait in line for a roller coaster ride... that might be the best "bang for your buck" example. You work all week for the weekend... that's trite. I think cooking is a good example but in reality the time it takes to make that pain-in-the-ass recipe seems to be 1/2 of the reward – especially a mole.
The sauce is notoriously time consuming and needs constant stirring, mixing, blending, searing, straining, etc. It's in 2 parts for most of the process. It dirties every kitchen utensil you have and smokes up your entire house. My dog went into convulsions which brought my wife to hysterics and they both had to go outside. It was kind of funny.
Continue reading "Red Mole: 5 Hours of Love" »
Lets face it, its hot out there.
And in here, too, if you are like me and without air conditioning. This is no time for hot food. You need something light and cool and easy to make, because you definitely don't want to be moving around to much. I offer a solution: radish sandwiches and concentrated lemonade.
Continue reading "Radish Sandwiches and Lemonade: Light as a Summer Breeze" »
I apologize for starting out with a bad pun. I was at work talking coffee and was told about a great cup of cold pressed coffee had in Minneapolis. Of course I looked around and found the Toddy coffee maker... A-hah! I have had experience doing this when I worked in the small Milwaukee coffee shop Ro-cham-bo. Talk about short term memory loss. Anyway I remember it being unruly and overall a fairly nasty process but with a flavorful result. Imagine large scale coffee-bean oil everywhere and having to stir floating grounds to keep the mix uniform. The first thing that came to mind this time is my french press pot. So I tried it out 1 cup of grounds and fill'er up. (the liter pot).
Then I gave it the press to circulate and leaving the filter all the way up, keeping the grounds just submerged, I sat it on the counter and went to bed. In the morning I looked at the black murk out of which little light escaped, the picture is with the sun directly behind it... that's dark.
Continue reading "Homemade Cold Press Coffee: Buzz Worthy" »
The website www.secretrecipes.org has unofficial directions to make everything from Baby Ruth candybars to KFC's Pecan Cake. In honor of the impending holiday I will attempt to reproduce Bailey's Irish Cream. My mother will undoubtebly be the litmus test.
The Bailey's recipe follows:
Continue reading "Homemade Bailey's Irish Cream" »
I got a taste of this new coffee-subscription service, Storyville Coffee. In their marketing materials they focused on among other things the benefits of the french press coffeepot. Since I've been unhappy with the taste of my Mr. Coffee I went out and dropped $30 on a Bodum. Apparantly the going rate for a large glass cylinder with a push-top and a handle is no less than $30. I did see an Ikea version (I think it was Ikea) for $15ish but too little, too late.
The knock against the french press is that the water needs boiling first and then about 4 minutes of steeping. So coffee in 10 minutes, not quick and there's no way to set a timer and wake up to it. It also gets cold quickly without a hot plate under it. It also needs a pretty coarse grind or you're left with settled sludge at the bottom of your cup. Lucky me I have a microwave and a good coffee grinder. And that means good coffee.
Continue reading "French Press vs. Automatic Drip" »
In my family, Christmas and Thanksgiving both revolve around the food. For Christmas, we start with cookies and coffee to get the grandchildren (ranging an ages from 5-31) all sugared up before we open presents, and then we return to the table for a HUGE pasta supper. I serve as the primary baker for our first course.
Continue reading "Nut-Free Foods" »
Almost every time I eat breakfast at my folk's house my mother makes
me a "donut egg" which is a piece of bread with
a hole in it, a fried egg, cracked into the hole.
I think everyone has had this breakfast. I was in line for an omelette this morning and heard two people talking about V for Vendetta and how they used to have "Eggy in the basket" (as it was called in the flick) all the time. The response was, "Yeah, me too. We called it ____." I forgot what she called it but it was something I'd never heard before.
Continue reading "How many ways to say: Egg in a Basket" »
This also could be called "never butter the pan when making cookies."
Hamantash or Hamantashen are Purim cookies. Purim is this week. It's scary when there's a hamantash.com but there is...
There is a great recipe for hamantashen that serves as a starting point from which I unfortunately deviated. As the potentially groundbreaking triangular cookie is baking I have some confidence that they might turn out and I'm not yet embarrassed by the result to not mention them. (NOTE: having tasted them - I am ashamed) The additions and switches include incorporating 1/2 wholewheat flour into the mix, using brown sugar and succanat instead of white sugar... adding more vanilla and a sprinkle of cinnamon and then getting some frou-frou black currant preserves and apricot marmalade to fill them with in addition to the traditional poppy-seed and berries.
I really do wonder if Solo sells more poppy-seed filling this week. It's like Superbowl Sunday for poppy-seed filling.
Continue reading "Hamantash/Hamantaschen" »
This 4th at the last minute we had a few people over and smoked some meats... Employing the same Flower Pot smoker from Father's Day I enjoyed a new perspective in the meat department of my Dominick's.
I got a top round roast cap off (oops...) and two packs of chicken thighs. I went back to get some thick Hungarian bacon to lay on top in lieu of a fatty layer and some banana leaves to line the smoker sealing in more smoke.
Cutting the roast into thirds, I rubbed it with the following:
2 tsp mexican paprika
2 tsp hungarian paprika
2 tsp pepper
2 tsp salt
2 tsp yellow mustard seed ground
2 tsp cumin
1 tsp cayanne pepper
1 tsp black (brown) mustard seed ground
1 tsp chopped dried and ground onion
Continue reading "4th of July Flower Pot: BBQ Beef" »
"Good Eats" is a great show. Alton Brown is kind of wacko but that's what we need. A reason to try silly ideas at home (this guy... he did this on the t.v...). At least it was my excuse.
Ceramic smokers are neat ideas. They are pretty costly too... see Big Green Egg. But they are way better than the old flower-pot. They are insulated and regulated and can blast high heat. I would worry about the flower pot over 300º.
The idea is that instead of radiating heat out, (like metal smokers)
requiring way more fuel and drying out your food, the ceramic pot is
insulated and has barely any airflow locking in heat and moisture. The only
downside is the lack of huge plumes of neighbor-attracting smoke. But
since this will be on a condominium deck and the neighbors would likely be
pissed, in my case, this is another advantage.
Continue reading "Flower Pot Ceramic Smoker" »
Lucky for me I have scored big bowls of fruit from the office. But since I don't load up on fruit the way I should I had to do something with it and quickly. Enter the blender...
I divvied up the honeydew and cantaloupe (musk), and ended up with relatively equal amounts of about 4 cups each. The honeydew went in first with 1/4 cup of sugar and a generous splash of triple sec. Liquify and pour into a couple of tupperware containers... I'm waiting to see whether they freeze up properly without a churn. I followed the same procedure with the musk melon adding a touch less sugar as they were sweeter than the blandish honeydew...
Continue reading "Melon Sorbet" »
This is a recipe to help us remember how NOT to make cole slaw.
I set out trying to make a tangy vinegar based cole slaw stretching a bit of an asian flavor into a sweetened tangy crisp slaw. Oh well. While I do like creamy slaws I also like vinegar based slaw. I just used too much vinegar.
Continue reading "Cole Slaw Failure" »
I was looking for Hummus and what do I find at the Devon Market? Nectar Del Razo Pulque in the cooler next to the beer from Croatia... It's gotta be bought and it's gonna be bought.
I got it home poured a tall one in my Blackhawks Budweiser glass and decided to google it.
http://www.tequilamescal.com/pulque.htm
It's maguey cactus nectar that's fermented to about 6% alcohol. It's syrupy and tastes really good. Kind of fruity but more woody... and sweet. It's like a Zima ...but woody. I could drink this all summer long.
Happy Cinco de Mayo...
Continue reading "Pulque: Aztec Cactus Cooler" »
After getting a special call from the father-in-law touting it as the "best brisket I've ever had" I figured it would be appropriate to give it an individual listing and it is the first thing that is officially "Josh's" - huzzah.
The two main ingredients are date stock and star anise. This is a pretty sweet and savory dish. Additional sugar and honey isn't necessary.
Continue reading "Josh's Brisket and Tzimmis" »
O.K. so it looks like my secret ingredient is dates...
I modified my mom's brisket recipe, omitting the beer and chili paste for the sake of Passover and adding instead beaujolais and the date stock from my Sephardic Charoset. In addition to yellow onions, I added whole anise, carrots, prunes, and sweet potato.
It is an 11lb brisket. I needed a fork and a turning thingy and some muscle. Browning it was a beast. It's also the only potential problem of the day. I'm giving it at least 3 hours at 350º. We shall see.
Continue reading "Iron Chef Passover" »
A traditional offering is Haroset representative of the mortar we, as slaves, used to make bricks. It also represents sweetness and more often than not has apples as a key ingredient. Stay with me... there are two traditions within historical Judaism. Ashkenozic and Sephardic. For more info read "Ashkenazic and Sephardic Jews".
There are many customs that differ. Sephardic Jews for example will eat rice on passover while Ashkenazic jews won't.
In the case of Haroset, Sephardic Jews use dates. Historically "The Land of Milk and Honey" refers to Date Honey or date syrup and to boot it looks more like mortar than chunky apples and nuts. Tastes better in my opinion too.
Continue reading "Sephardic Haroset" »
*NOTE: Trader Joe's has recalled this product...
It's like aliens came, beamed me up, and brainwashed me with Trader Joe's crap. I know it's a strong-arm grocery owned by Aldi and they repackage everything with their name smacked on it but MAN! Their Mole Rojo is awesome.
I've made Bayless' apricot pine nut mole and it was unbelievably good. But it took hours and hours. The Trader Joe's Rojo you mix with stock and get a very bitter peppery mildly choco-taste that heats up well and considering the simplicity of the process is a wonderful cheat for a late dinner.
Continue reading "Holy Mole!" »
Tasty Bite dinners and a rice cooker yield awesome multi-entree dinners in 2 minutes flat (per entree). And you have a selection! of which many are vegan; Madras Lentils, Kashmir Spinach, Bombay Potatoes, Jodhpur Lentils, and others. And they're all good.
Today's were lentils and rice. Madras Lentils with kidney beans in a spicy tomato-based sauce and Jodhpur Lentils, yellow lentils in a thinner sauce. Over brown rice it makes for a responsible and tasty dinner.
You will definitely find ones you like more than others but they are
all better than you'd expect. Not that they compare to homemade Indian
but you can saute some chicken (or goat even) then pour the 'Tasty
Bite' of choice over and simmer as long as you want.
Continue reading "Microwaving India" »

My wife is on a kick. We ate Mac and Cheese twice this weekend, going to lengths to do so at that. Heading up to Milwaukee for Easter allowed the opportunity to hit The Social, 434 S. 2nd St., Milwaukee – where they do a memorable mac and cheese. A rosmary chicken in creamy goat's cheese type of Mac & Cheese.
As they say, the memory is always better and sure enough this time it sort of reminded us of rosemary chicken tetrazini. It wasn't as good as we remembered it. The roasted chicken didn't carry the rosemary instead it was super-rosy integrated into the entire dish.
For comparison's sake we put Martha's Mac and Cheese together Sunday night and while I thought it on par with The Social's, it lacked the oomph from a previous attempt. It was pretty bland as per the directions. I'd tend in the future to add more nutmeg, salt and cayanne to taste and then it should edge out Milwaukee's best...
Continue reading "Macaroni & Cheese – Martha vs. The Social" »
What do you do with that old hot air popcorn popper? Roast coffee? That couldn't work.
After a brief visit to Metropolis on Granville (coffee roasters and cafe) refreshed my barista days post college I started thinking more about coffee. I figured a hot air popcorn popper is pretty much the exact same thing but accepts way smaller quantity. The Metropolis guys are not using hot air (so you know). I had a "Popcorn Pumper" from a salvation army trip and figured what the heck.
Continue reading "The Backyard Coffee Roast" »

A little coffee with your fiber? So I made whole wheat pancakes. I figured higher fiber, no bleach... sounds good. We ate most of them, stuck the rest in tupperware with wax paper and had a couple more over the last few days.
Making a whole wheat pancake you are trying to avoid the heavy, super absorbant, grainy cakes. Trying to replicate regular pancakes. These absorbed maple syrup endlessly. They were pretty grainy but tasted good. Like a wheaty cornbread without committing to savory the way cornbread does. So I think maybe use that absorbancy and make coffee-soaked whole wheat chocolate pancakes...
Continue reading "Coffee-Cake" »
Having little faith in teflon I went and got an 8" and a 10" Emeril non-stick pan. I've had them four years and in that time the 10" has completely lost it's non-stick-ness. I know what I did. I left it on a high-flame. (I actually think my wife did it)
Continue reading "All-Clad's "Emeril" Non-stick Pans" »
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