I always wonder whether or not to write about places like Blackbird. It's a Chicago mainstay. Everyone knows about it. But having eaten there recently it would be a shame not to wallow in the near-perfection of the restaurant. Even sitting at the bar, I had a terrific dinner.
The bar location means sitting on tall hard wooden chairs versus the short wooden chairs at the regular tables. Neither are cushioned (boy, do I need special treatment) so it's not really an issue. However service is not the same. If you want constant attention get a table.
It's on Randolph and the decor is very formal and clean – definitely not homey or casual. The
appetizers I tried included the scallops, quail and sweetbreads.
The
scallops were perfect with and eggplant puree was a nice way to include
a dense pseudo-starch where I might expect a
potato-type thing in an entrée. The scotch quail and egg was also
terrific. I had the quail app at Custom House 2 nights before and while
I enjoyed Custom House's more it was also the best part of my Custom
House meal.
The sweetbreads were cooked twice, finished in the pan with
a crispy dusting. The earthy beets were a perfect combo. Considering
the foie gras ban - sweetbreads are really the next best thing. Pictured are Kahan's passed sweetbread appetizers from a benefit dinner with Mario Batali.
(I think those were the sweetbreads)
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