Chef Mark Grosz of Oceanique on Fish
When staring out into the grand expanse that is Lake Michigan it is easy to forget that you are standing at the edge of the largest mass of fresh water in the world, the Great Lakes. It is also easy to forget that there was a time when Chicago was the largest port in the United States and that the Lake was busy with fisherman dotting the horizon pulling in the day’s catch.
Today Lake Michigan and the other the Great Lakes still support massive ecosystems that are home to a number of species of fresh water fish. Whether it’s walleye, salmon or white fish – lake perch, trout or smelt – there is no end to the abundance of great tasting fresh fish that make their way from the Lake and on to menus across the city.
In order to learn more about the fish of the Great Lakes we interviewed – Chef Mark Grosz of Oceanique in Evanston. Chef Mark is a seasoned expert when it comes to successfully preparing fresh water fish. In this interview with the Chicago Foodies he was not only kind enough to share his thoughts but also included an exclusive recipe for Chicago Foodie readers.
CHICAGO FOODIES:
What are your favorite local fish to cook with? Why?
CHEF MARK:
Smelt. It can be cooked crispy without overcooking giving it great texture and you can even eat the whole fish, head and all! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smelts
CHICAGO FOODIES:
When eating fresh smelt what should it taste like?
CHEF MARK:
Should taste like a breath of fresh water with simple, clean and natural mineral flavors that you just don’t get in saltwater catch.
CHICAGO FOODIES:
What are good accompaniments or side dishes with fresh water fish?
CHEF MARK:
Fresh fish is often very mild so to take things to the next level I like to use kalamata olives, capers, herbed aioli, and I love working with kimchi whenever I can. Also adding a crisp textural element is great contrast to soft fish like pea tips, asparagus or heirloom carrots.
CHICAGO FOODIES:
What types of wines go well with fish? Is red forbidden?
CHEF MARK:
I love a good Muscadet or a Sancerre (Sauvignon Blanc) but red is definitely not out of the question. I think you should look at your ingredients on the plate and then make deductions about the direction of wine style you would like to head in. I love drinking reds like a French Chinon (Cabernet Franc) with tuna, mackerel, sardines and salmon. The most important thing is to make sure you can still taste every element in the dish while allowing the wine to be an additional one.
CHICAGO FOODIES:
If you had to eat one Great Lakes fish for the rest of your life what would you eat?
CHEF MARK:
Walleye from Lake Erie, it has beautiful texture and natural oils. It’s a fun fish to work with because it can be paired with a vast array of flavors and is a great fish to try for someone that isn’t a big fan of fish.
CHICAGO FOODIES:
Can you get fresh fish in Chicago? Do you recommend any places?
CHEF MARK:
Supreme Lobster, they are a huge player in the commercial seafood industry and they also have a retail operation and are headquartered in the city. They are working closely with a company called Safe Harbor that has an onsite lab in Supreme’s warehouse that tests every specimen before it ships to my kitchen. Also, I get a detailed report of what is shipped to me so I am assured of the quality that I serve to my guests.
http://www.supremelobster.com/safe-harbor-2/
If you have the opportunity you should definitely dine at Oceanique so that Chef Mark can prepare an amazing meal for you. If not, he has been kind enough to provide Chicago Foodies and exclusive walleye recipe that is sure to be a huge hit. Check out the recipe!
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