Restaurants

Next Restaurant – Paris 1906... In Pictures.

Josh Brusin

June 09 2011 - 10:49 PM

Next_gougeres_chNext_bites_chNext_turtlepour_blend_ChNext_sole_ChNext_chicken_chNext_duck_chNext_duckside_chNext_salad_chNext_bombe_chNext_chef_ch
CLICK TO ENLARGE. PICTURED IN ORDER: Gougeres/Hors d’Oeuvres (assorted bites)/Potage à la Tortue Claire (turtle soup)/Filet de Sole Daumont (filet of sole)/Suprêmes de Poussin (chicken supreme)/Caneton Rouennais à la Presse (pressed duck)/Gratin de Pommes de Terre à la Dauphinoise (potato gratin)/Salade Irma/Bombe Ceylan

At this point a review of Next Paris 1906 is a bit late. The best I can do is provide my photos from that night’s dinner and say that the reserve wine pairing was worth the money. From the gougeres-amuse through the mignardises (unpictured), it was terrific. The accessibility of the meal reminded me of a meal I had at Grant-era Trio.

Highlights included the turtle soup with an oxidized “yellow wine” pairing – Domaine de Montbourgeau ‘L’Etoile Vin Jaune’ Jura 2003. It started as a fino sherry and grew lighter as you enjoyed it.  The sole course prompted me to imitation albeit a lo-cal, tomato-broth-based sous vide filet rolled with buttery crawfish… not nearly as wonderful. The chicken supreme, which I’ve heard middling comments about was a highlight of texture and simple flavor, especially when followed up with the  duck entree. Heaping portions with a pressed sauce that has a molten, pate-like quality. They’ll bring a boat of it over, don’t dive into the duck until they do…

The pairing with the Sole, Meursault Goutte d’Or 1er Cru Coche-Bizouard 2005, was the highlight of the wine pairings. A superb white burgundy that has a full old-world blissful oak-signature that maximizes the chardonnay grape. I could have crawled under the table with the bottle and held out until they switched to the Thai menu.

One of the nice things about the wine pairing is that they pour you a glass and leave you the bottle. The burgundy binge not withstanding, I really enjoyed having the bottle for reference. It reminded me of the rum cake dessert at Bistrot Benoit in Paris where they wheel a cart of different rums over and you’re encouraged to go to town. It makes the Louvre way more abstract.

Execution was wonderful from the food to the service which was completely attentive without the stuffy, matronly haute-cuisine norm. I’m looking forward to what comes next. Next exceeds expectations. Dave Beran is completely on his game. The only downside was that I was unable to try several courses that are VIP only. Of course exclusivity and privilege seem to be a part of the concept.

FULL MENU WITH RESERVE PAIRING:
Hors d’Oeuvres Vincent Carré Brut Champagne
Potage à la Tortue Claire
907
Domaine de Montbourgeau ‘L’Etoile Vin Jaune’ Jura 2003
Filet de Sole Daumont
1950
Meursault Goutte d’Or 1er    Cru Coche-Bizouard 2005
Suprêmes de Poussin
3130
Domaine Leon Barral ‘Jadis’ Faugères 2006
Caneton Rouennais à la Presse
3476
Gratin de Pommes de Terre à la Dauphinoise 4200
Domaine Brusset ‘Les Hauts De Montmirail’ Gigondas 2005
Salade Irma
3839
Bombe Ceylan
4826
Graham’s 10 year Tawny Port
Mignardises

–Josh Brusin

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