Sunrise Biscuit Kitchen in Chapel Hill, NC

May 05 2010 - 8:37 AM

Though I was technically born a southerner in Louisville, KY, my family later moved off to New England, where I quickly lost my habit of saying "ya'll" and acquired a penchant for saying "wicked." Thus, I am somewhat ashamed to say that I have never had a slice of Derby pie, and the only fried chicken I tried while in Louisville was the KFC variety. Having been safely ensconced above the Mason-Dixon line for a number of years now, I figured I would simply have to make do with whatever ersatz barbecue joints I came across up north. Then, my old college roommate moved to North Carolina, in a "temporary" relocation. And so, over the last few years, I've made several trips to NC, traversing the state from the Research Triangle to the Blue Ridge Mountains. Oh boy, an exciting opportunity to explore my Southern heritage anew, pimento cheese, collard greens and all!

Buttermilk biscuits are another foodstuff that is ubiquitous throughout the South, but Sunrise Biscuit Kitchen is unique in their single-minded devotion to creating carbohydrate perfection. Here, the biscuit is elevated from a mere side starch to an entree unto itself. These are flaky, buttery pillows, a downy blanket carefully cradling a meat of your choice. 

My personal favorite is the chicken biscuit ($3), a juicy breaded and fried chicken breast. The crackling nubbins of the fried chicken crunch against the fluffy biscuit, light yet still strong enough to serve as the foundation for your sandwich. The already transluscent paper is a clear window to gastronomic ecstacy. You can't go wrong with the ham biscuit either ($2), filled with a silky layer of country ham. Other options include sausage and pork chop biscuits. After you make it through the drive-thru, chow down on your biscuit from the parking lot while it is still piping hot. Don't forget to wash everything down with a tall, ice-cold cup of sweet tea. Lines can get long by mid-morning, when Chapel Hill's collegiate late-night revelers awaken and go searching for a hangover cure.

Speaking of which, with all the buzz lately on food trucks in Chicago, does anyone want to start up a biscuit-slinging truck? I'll even provide some (biscuit) dough to help get this off the ground. 

Sunrise Biscuit Kitchen
1305 E. Franklin
Chapel Hill, NC 27514
(919) 933-1324

Hours: 6 am – 2:30 pm

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