Lockwood's Chicago Style Lobster Dog

June 24 2009 - 9:10 PM


…is a damned, dirty lie. But a lip-smackingly tasty one at that. Though the haute dog looks benignly similar to a regular Chicago hot dog, its innocuous appearance is a facade for daredevilish things. But fear not, there is nary trace of ketchup on this hot dog.

So, what do you get for your hard-earned $18? For starters, your hot dog wiener has been replaced with a delicate, slow-poached sausage of lobster mousse. The bright yellow is not mustard, but a vivid saffron-ginger sauce. In lieu of onions and a dill pickle spear, we have leeks and a cucumber spear. The entire ensemble is topped with cherry tomatoes and slices of green pepper, and served on a hefty potato bun. A Chicago-style hot dog this most certainly is not, as it does not evoke the bold, in-your-face chutzpah of the classic Chicago dog.

I shudder to think of hapless tourists who may come away from this meal thinking that they've tried a Chicago hot dog. Rather, the lobster dog is the snooty, refined great-aunt of the Chicago hot dog, the one who tells you to go to Vail since the skiing is poor in the Midwest. They both display understated elegance, make spending in excess feel great, and leave a bit of a mess on your hands when they are gone.

While you're here, other tasty diversions include the Kobe beef sliders and the 3-composition bruschetta. The sliders come atop buttery brioche buns, drizzled with a bright, black peppercorn sauce and topped with microgreens. The bruschetta is presented in three crocks, featuring mushroom, heirloom tomato, and bell peppers paired with three cheeses. The topping:bread ratio was a little generous, but when we ran out of bread, our server happily brought us additional slices.

All in all, an excellent spot for a business lunch or a pre-theater outing.

Lockwood
17 E. Monroe St (in the Palmer House Hilton)
(312) 917-3404

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