Adjacent to Grant Park and the Blackstone Hotel, Mercat a la Planxa is a recent addition to the South Loop's ever burgeoning roster of swank restaurants. In particular, Mercat a la Planxa brings a taste of Barcelona to Chicago, with a Catalan-inspired tapas menu. Chef Jose Garces has garnered critical acclaim for his nuevo Latin cuisine while cooking at tapas restaurants in Spain and on the Eastern seaboard, but does Mercat live up to the hype and the price tag?
As I climbed up the stairs to the restaurant one Tuesday evening, I was surprised at how busy the restaurant was. A crowd of people were already in line ahead of me, and the room was filled with the buzz of conversation. After speaking to the hostess, I was informed that a table for two would not be ready for the next 30 minutes. No problem, we would simply wait at the bar. Unfortunately, the bar was similarly packed and getting the attention of the bartender was akin to driving in New York--it pays to be aggressive. Mercat does offer some interesting Spanish wines and variations on sangria, including a juniper-infused sangria that evening, but you may want to hold off and order these at the table.
Meanwhile, I took in the scene around me. Mercat's dining room features bright, bold colors with high ceilings and windows to take in the bustle of Michigan Avenue. A red, orange and purple patterned hexagonal wall added a splashy, contemporary vibe and music was playing loudly in the background. Spacing between tables was tight, though this did not impede the flow of conversation. All this combines to create an energetic atmosphere that would almost seem bar-like, if not for the food.
After all, the fare is certainly a cut above bar food. Mercat offers a large selection of cheeses, cured meats, traditional tapas, seafood and rice plates. You can also order meats and fish "a la planxa," or cooked on a flat-top grill. For the more adventurous, cochinillo asado (whole roasted suckling pig) is available for parties of 4 or more if you call 72 hours in advance.
We started off with the Montcabrer goat cheese with black olive caramel. This was the most novel dish for me, with distinctive olive notes punctuating the caramel, combined with slices of green apple and semi-firm goat cheese. Next, the truita de patata arrived, a Spanish omelet with spinach and potato, served with a strong saffron aioli. The omelet was rich and flavorful, pleasing even to non-egg fans. The pulpo con patatas, or octopus with potato confit, followed suit. This was seasoned with smoked paprika and cooked to a perfect tenderness. The only jarring aspect was the unappealing pieces of fat that were attached to the octopus. Finally, the arroz con cangrejo was served, a lump crab rice topped with a dainty crab cake and fried quail egg. Studded with lumps of crab meat, the rice was a creamy delight, and a change of pace from a traditional paella.
As an additional aside, the bread served at the beginning of the meal is fabulous, a thick, foot-long piece of focaccia loaded with fresh tomatoes and garlic.
At this point, we weren't hungry but neither were we particularly full. Mercat's portions are small, and in my estimation, not large enough to share with more than 2-3 people. I could spend an equivalent amount at Cafe Iberico and come away stuffed to the gills. On the other hand, the food is quite rich and satiating, though served in minimal quantities. Moreover, each dish was generally top-notch, with unique flavors, quality ingredients and innovative presentations on display. If I were to return, I would opt for the $55 tasting menu, since you will pay about the same amount if not more by ordering items a la carte.
Did I mention that the restaurant was quite busy? Service was friendly but fairly inattentive for the duration of the evening. Multiple servers brought out our food, and our server in particular seemed inexperienced and was not forthcoming with details about the menu. Having said that, it was easy enough to flag down a staff member when we needed something.
The meal was capped off with an order of chocolate croquettes. Six croquettes arrived on a rectangular dish with shallow, individual compartments, filled with pools of marshmallow cream and olive oil. The crisp croquettes were filled with melted chocolate and rosemary caramel, which burst in your mouth as you bit into them. In essence, this was a very dressed-up version of the classic s'more, and it shined brighter than a campfire.
Mercat a la Planxa
638 S. Michigan (at Balbo)
(312) 765-0524



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