The Return of Lambrusco

Some of you may remember the ads in the '70s and early '80s for Riunite Lambrusco:  "Riunite on ice, that's nice".   I wasn't of drinking age during Riunite's heyday, and even before I was I generally drank wine coolers (remember those?) or beer.   I've never tried Riunite personally, but many remember it as a fizzy sugary-sweet concoction perhaps belonging  next to the jug of Paul Masson Burgundy, Mogen David, and Blue Nun.

I did some digging around Web sites to unearth more of Riunite's history.  At its peak, according to an article in Men's Vogue magazine, Riunite, owned by a cooperative of Italian wine growers, peaked its production in 1984 at 11.2 million cases.   The article states dry Lambrusco apparently was not even exported to the United States until 1995.

For those not in the now Lambrusco is a frizzante (which means it's lightly sparkling) rosso (red) wine that is almost purplish in color, although some producers produce white and rosé versions (white lambrusco, like some champagne, is made from red grapes by removing the skins).    Most Lambrusco is produced in the norther Emilia-Romagna region best known for Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and Prosciutto di Parma ham.  Twice I've tried Lini 910 "Labrusca", which has flavors of dark cherries and even black olives.  This Lambrusco is mostly dry, though it does have a hint of sweetness.  It's carried at Pastoral for, roughly, under $20.

Comments

[Eddie Lakin]

nice find. I lived in Bologna for a year and Lambrusco was the default table wine, so I drank it often and it became a favorite. the great thing about it is its versatility. it can easily work with so many foods.

it wasn't exported (and still isn't, in much quantity) because the frizzante doesn't travel well. the carbonation is natural and it fades over time.

I've been predicting for years that good Italian Lambrusco from Emilia-Romagna will be the next big wine trend. maybe this year I'll be correct.

thanks for a good entry.

[gggumdrops]

I love Riunite Lambrusco! It's very sweet and inexpensive. Most all grocery stores carry it and it comes in a regular and larger size. Just plan on finishing off the whole bottle when you open it since it loses its fizz.

[Mark Villalobos]

Eddie,
you may be right about this year. In Chicago we are lucky to have the Lambrusco based wines from Cantina Ceci, located in the foggy hills of Parma. They have been making wine since the 1930's and right now around town (Sam's, Fox & Obel)you can find 3 wines: an organic dry Lambrusco called La Luna, a slightly sweet (amabile) version, and a rosato 50/50 blend of Lambrusco and Pinot Nero.
I work for the importer and I would like to see foodies embrace the wine that was made for people who love food. Misconceptions and biases abound but many restaurants, especially those who make slightly spicy food, are jumping on board so if you see it on a menu or in a store, go for it.

[George]

I just returned from a family vacation (covert food trip) to Emilia Romagna. We ate in Parma, Modena and Bologna. I'm not a wine expert by any stretch but I truly enjoyed the Lambrusco we had with the traditional regional specialties. In virtually all of these restaurants, both fancy and down-home type, Lambrusco was offered and recommended. I'm trying to learn traditional Italian cooking (via Batali, Hazan, Rossetto-Kasper and even some Italian cook books I acquired over there) and I'd like to serve Lambrusco with my meals. The question is, how can I get it here in the US?

[lambruscoLover]

George, you can learn more about one of the best Lambrusco producers by visiting http://www.VinoFrizzante.com. It also lists retailers and online sources. I agree, quality lambrusco is truly enjoyable!

[Margie]

We've been drinking Lambrusco for years.We love it, served it at our wedding 26 years ago. Many guests inquired about the great red wine we served at the dinner. In Canada it sells for just under $9, but we can never order in in a restaurant, even Italian ones, so we only enjoy it at home.

[StellaCadente*]

I just wrote a post about lambrusco (and then saw this one). I ended up tagging you in the "comments" section since my friends are now heckling me about Riunite. Not the same thing!