Bob San: Neighborhood Sushi

It used to be when you walked into Bob San on Division the sing-song greeting “irasshaimase” would bounce off the celery walls and land on the cement floor at your feet. A pioneer since 2000 on a strip of Division that now boasts a yoga boutique, a chocolatier and a parade of restaurants and bars, Bob San didn’t draw a crowd, initially.

Last summer the place blew up. Sauntering in sporting flip-flops and post-workout hair expecting a quick, casual bite, the Japanese greeting (meaning “please come in”) was swallowed by the mating calls of dudes in striped oxfords and their shoulder-hanging dates. Forget about eating, you couldn’t even land an elbow on the bar.

 

So began the year-long expansion into former Leo’s Lunchroom space. What was an IKEAesque sushi bar is now sleek and polished. The main dining area feels expensive in deep shades of red and brown, a new bar flanked in bamboo wood has doubled in size and the lighting throughout is pleasing, for even the pore-conscious set. It might call itself Robert San, but who would know? When I arrived last Friday for a 7:30 reservation the place was empty.

 

 

It’s not the food. The food has always been good. Friday night sashimi specials were fresh: tangy sections of super white tuna, magenta slices of bonito and plump amberjack. Don’t overlook the chef’s special and light entrée list; pan-fried scallops with soy lemon glaze ($11.95) and hamachi sashimi jalapeno in citrus soy ($16.95) are worth your coin. Spicy tuna is unremarkable, but a durable list of maki—hand rolls, if you like—overshadows it. House Crunch is a winner; packed with shrimp tempura, spicy mayo drizzled in eel sauce. If shrimp doesn’t do it for you, order Mike’s Crunch—an unlisted custom roll named after a patron who likes his House Crunch with salmon. The list goes on.

 

At 9:30 I plucked a complimentary slice of orange from a toothpick, paid the bill and left. The dining room was full, but the bar was missing the crush of trendsetters. Perhaps their pockets are empty. Perhaps they’re eating the ethnic small plates that have invaded our city. I’m satisfied either way. I have my neighborhood sushi spot back, and it looks good.

Bob San

1805 W. Division

773-235-8888

Comments

[Kimmy]

I am not a huge fan of Bob San. I've lived in the neighborhood some time now, and I've never really enjoyed this restaurant no matter how many times I try it. It's convenient location can't seem to even seem to boost my opinion beyond the fact that everything there is mediocre.

Coast used to be a place I frequented with it's BYOB and excellent cuts of fish being a major lure. Now, over the past couple years it's always really overcrowded and it's more popular than ever despite the quality of food slowly declining.

I've become a big fan of Sushi X for delivery sushi and to eat in. It's significantly better when you eat in. While their fish isn't always the best it's always good and their rolls are creative. I prefer it to bob san anyday.

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