Ashkenaz: Tongue Sandwiches

Ashkenaz, a Jewish delicatessen on Cedar Street, is either an oxymoron or an anachronism in the Gold Coast, a neighborhood populated with chain restaurants, overpriced restaurants, nightclubs drawing a suburban clientele, and a scant few charming neighborhood places. Ashkenaz is the type of place where the staff seldom changes and the regulars therefore know the staff, so it definitely has a neighborhood feel.

The fare at Ashkenaz is not the healthiest but their bagels and sandwiches are always a pleasure to have. So what do I have on a Saturday after a workout? A savory tongue sandwich. Tongue? Well, if you didn’t know what it was you might not think anything of it. Tongue sandwiches at delis typically taste like corned beef but with a softer, smoother, and in my opinion, more flavorful. A thumbs up to Ashkenaz’s tongue sandwiches (with mustard on rye, preferably). I

also fancy their ruggalah, which is a pastry of cinnamon and raisins.

 

At the end of the day what's so awful about offal (oh, shame on me for that one) when we eat it in a different form but don't realize what it is.   Maybe I'll skip the experience of eating tete de veau.

Ashkenaz
12 E. Cedar
312-944-5006

Comments

[Alan Jacobson]

I remember going to Ashkenaz when I was a kid (ca. 1975 or so), but I don't remember it being on Cedar St. Was it located some where else earlier or is the current place a new joint using the Ashkenaz name?

[Brian Z.]

Good question--I did a bit of research and found that the current deli opened in 1973 and was named after the original owner, Sam Ashkenaz (according to Metromix). For some reason I remembered something about an Ashkenaz in Rogers Park and was able to dig up some more information. Apparently it originated on Morse Ave. Was this the one you were thinking about?

[Alan Jacobson]

Thanks! It's got to be the same one. I was very young at the time. My grandparents lived on Lunt Ave., and we drove in from Des Plaines for brunch with them. I remember trying eggplant there. I was young enough that the idea of an egg-plant was scary to me. I also remember they had amazing potato pancakes.

[Mark Z]

I'm still trying to find out if the same family (Ashkenaz) own or operate this deli also? I moved from Chicago years ago but had a friend, Steve Ashkenaz whose family owned the original deli on Morse Avenue. I then heard they moved it up north to Northbrook or Highland Park. Does anyone know if the deli on Cedar has any association with the original Ashkenaz? It'd be worth the drive back home (I live in Central Illinois with no kosher deli's anywhere around) just to get a tongue, chopped liver or matzoball soup - or even sweet & sour cabbage soup!! Yummy!

[Elisa Martin]

My mother in law Angie Martin ( Noto ) worked there for years..she was on the counter..and knew so much about the culture and great cuisine. I miss her and I miss Ashkenaz..their bagels were the best in the city...