Three Brothers

Three Brothers, which opened in 1956 in Bay View, is perfect this wintry time of year. It's in one of the original Schlitz taverns and is a perfect setup for traditional Serbian food.

It's on the South side of Milwaukee and it's a 2002 James Beard award winner. Considering Chicago traffic, if you're in the Northern suburbs a jaunt to South Milwaukee may be a quicker evening out than a venture downtown. It's worth it.

Among assorted roasted and stewed meat the specialties are goulash and burek. What can you say about them? They are as good as what they are. I'm not a Serbian expert but the claim to traditional recipes and dishes I don't doubt.

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The iceberg lettuce salad was spartan and the Serbian/Baltic wines are all a bit goofy but the beer selection is the way to go anyway. Big bottles that stand up to the big meaty and vinegary flavors that reminded me of a variety of meals. I had meatballs in pickled cabbage which was very tasty and though I left much of my cabbage it was filling and terrific. The other dishes had lots of paprika, potato dumplings, filo pastry... leave some time to savor everything.

The restaurant has a wonderful retro feel to it. It's staid and by retro I mean authentic... not deco bowling alley. The vintage bar is a real sight. It's a place that belongs in Milwaukee and deserves out of town guests.

Entrees are quite reasonable as most are under $15.

You want me to draw you a map?

Three Brothers
2414 St. Clair

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