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« "Never Order a 'Black and Tan' from an Irishman." | Main | Pizzeria Uno vs. "Uno Chicago Grill" »

March 20, 2006

Avec

Right next to Blackbird, the big brother (or sugar daddy) of Avec, is a simple rectangular restaurant that seems to want to stress form over function. The 1-room has a row of tables running the length of one half of the restaurant and a bar/counter and kitchen along the other. It looks like something out of Dwell magazine. The irony is that the food is fairly complicated with a traditional grounding. While the food fattens your ass, the stool will flatten it.

And the food is good. The menu is an assortment of small plates, that aren't too small, and large plates that we didn't try. When you get knee-deep into the menu you might also have the desire for variety. Dishes like the crispy duck confit with blood oranges in a blood orange vinaigrette and crispy short ribs with red peppers, cilantro, red onion and harissa aioli were ones that, as I left, I wish I tried.

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I did have plenty of good stuff though. From a very stinky cheese I think from Sauternes...Cave de Vignerons. Maybe stinky was the wrong word but rather very much like dirt. Not muddy... a drier dirt. (get the idea?).  Chorizo-stuffed dates with bacon in a pepper-tomato sauce were awesome. I skipped the brandade but will make sure to get it next time. The seared cod with cauliflower was phenomonal. The saltiness of the capers and the speck (fatty parts of hog's legs?) worked great with the fish. The special was rabbit-stuffed grape leaves which were also wonderful. They had a very hearty flavor but I didn't get very much sense of the rabbit.

There's always talk about trouble getting a table at Avec. Considering we walked in at 7:45 without a reservation on a Friday night and were seated at the bar immediately I would say that as long as you don't mind the bar you should be good anytime. A table for 4 might take a bit longer. They will take your mobile and call you when it's ready so you can sit and drink at any of the surrounding bars. What's more important than cocktail hour? Keep in mind that the wine list is very good by the bottle or glass (glass and a half servings). They also offer a good selection of cheeses.

Avec
312-377-2002
615 W. Randolph
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