Argo Georgian Bakery (2812 W. Devon Ave.) had been on my list of bakeries to visit for months. On a particularly gorgeous day last weekend my friend Harold and I drove up to Devon to try it out. We entered into a small and sparsely decorated shop with tiled floors and a large, earthen domed oven directly ahead of us.
In our usual fashion we indecisively loitered around the counter until eventually deciding on a spinach pie, a honey and walnut pie (tapluna), a hachapuri (mozzarella, farm cheese, and feta cheese pie, pictured), a Georgian round bread (puri), and a long bread (shoti). We sat down in one of the few sets of small tables along the wall and dug in to our first three offerings. The spinach pie was simple and hearty, served cool. I thought it could have used a bit of seasoning or simply some salt, but otherwise it was quite tasty. The tapluna was a sweet roll of pastry, covered in powdered sugar, and filled with a sweet and nutty filling. This was also lovely, though perhaps a bit too sweet for my tastes.
At this point we realized that the hachapuri was still warm, and. . . oh my. . . ahem. Let me be clear, you simply MUST go buy yourself a hachapuri from Argo's next time you are on Devon. we devoured this sizable puff of flaky pastry, oozing with a divine combination of creamy cheeses in seconds. Then, without much consultation immediately purchased another to eat on the spot. This second hachapuri had come out of the oven only seconds before. I am a little embarrassed to say that in my over-zealous desire for more hachapuri I repeatedly burned myself with the hot steam pouring out of the holes that our bites made in the pastry dome. As we sat back to rest once we were through we noticed how rapidly the hachapuri was being taken from the oven and quickly purchased by the waiting customers. This is definitely their specialty.
Upon our arrival home we sampled their breads. These were unique flat breads with a lovely taste, a pleasant aroma, and a dry texture. Highly recommended and like nothing I have encountered before. Argo is simply superb and refreshingly unique. The staff is friendly and patient, and the hachapuri are heartbreakingly delicious and fleeting. . . Go with time to spare in case you need to wait for a batch of hachapuri and check out the domed oven. One more delicious reason to add to the list of why I love Devon.
You were very lucky to get warm hachapuri. These go fast and are often handed straight from the oven to customers. Did you get a picture of the oven? I am told that it is the only oven of its type in the city (I forget the name of the oven type), and that Argo is the only place to get hachapuri in the city.
Posted by: eatchicago | April 07, 2005 at 03:03 PM
I am hooked, the hachapuri were so delicious. I did get a picture of the oven, in fact. It should either be up here soon or on my site (http://www.probonobaker.com) in the next few days.
It is taken from the front of the store, so it is not an interior shot, but it does give a nice view of the overall establishment.
I cannot recall the name of that style of oven but I will poke around for information on it. I also heard a rumor that Argo is the only Georgian bakery in the U.S.A., though I will have to check that out as well.
Posted by: gemma | April 07, 2005 at 03:37 PM
there are 25 kinds of hachapuri. the oven is called tone. i'm georgian . you shoul try achma
Posted by: gela | September 20, 2006 at 05:36 AM
i have added a picture of the oven at http://www.flickr.com/photos/pgoyette/2127769182/.
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