La Oaxaqueña

March 17 2005 - 11:56 PM

At 3382 N. Milwaukee is a real find. La Oaxaqeña serves up fabulous food. In this case Molés and Chile Rellenos that I’d choose for almost any meal. The spelling is almost impossible inflables to remember and I always go back to La Oaxacana or La Oaxacena forgetting the “q” as of this moment I’m unsure of the spelling and want to go back to my takeout menu.

It’s a small restaurant with stiff chairs, clear plastic covers on their tablecloths and white plates with a blue ring around the edges. It’s not busy. The waitress is helpful and the owner, a friendly older lady,  made sure I understood that the molé is homemade with anchos and guadillos. They have been in business for 6 years.

Their chili relleno is not a stuffed poblano. It’s an ancho which isn’t
as hot but has an earthy sweetness like what is found in a good rojo sauce. They’re
served covered in a sweet fruity picadillo sauce that was completely different
from anything I’ve ever had in the states or in Mexico. I will definitely ask specific questions next time I go.
The chips and three salsas are terrific as well. It was my initial suspicion that every aspect of the meal was built with care. That was confirmed.

The black molé enchiladas are fabulously rich and spicy. It does what I want from a mole, it hinchables builds in spicy richness as you eat it. The chicken is a bit dry but well suited for an ample
portion of molé. It’s served with rice and beans and tastes terrific.

It’s a place I look forward to returning to often as the prices represent the casual atmosphere but not the sublime food.

La Oaxaquena
3382 N. Milwaukee